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Writer's pictureSlow Coach

Updated: Mar 9, 2022


The magical atmosphere of Jemma El-Fna at sunset


Nothing brings the Marrakech experience to life more than watching the square of Jemaa El-Fna. Jemaa El-Fna means ‘assembly of the dead’ probably because this was the site of public executions in the past – but today this place is far from anything that is lifeless! It is in fact the heartbeat of Marrakech – transforming from an old square to nothing short of a theatrical spectacle! No wonder that UNESCO recognized it as ‘Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity’ in 2001.


Snake charmers of Jamma El-Fna


There isn't much going on in the morning compared to the evening, but to the first time traveller it almost feels like time travel. Snake charmers show off their collection of slithering beings, getting close and even getting a kiss from them – though this is quite a debatable topic when it comes to animal welfare, and to a large extent a bit unsettling, it does transport you to a world when this was the norm.


The poisonous kiss!!

Then there are the extensively photographed water sellers of Morocco. Dressed in their traditional costumes they are called Gharrib and must have been important to the travellers of the desert region, selling water to thirsty people from their goat skin water bags. One thing to make note of before travelling to Morocco is that taking photographs isn't easy. People usually approach you for money if they find you taking their pictures, or you may get asked to take a picture of them and when you do, you are asked to pay for it! Well, though this is a bit weird at the start, if you want to enjoy your travel, you need to loosen up a bit, the water sellers for example are not needed anymore in this day and age, but they carry a piece of history and personally we do feel for these people who making their living this way. We pictured this guy and later discovered that he was also featured on a National Geographic magazine – we wonder if the guy was aware of how much of the world has seen him!!


Water sellers of Morocco


On the day we arrived at Marrakech we headed to Jamma El-Fna during late afternoon and found a seat with a view on the of the rooftop cafés in the square and decided to spend the evening seeing the drama unfold in front of our eyes while sipping the quintessential mint tea.


As the evening progresses, one can witness a gradual change in ambience. With the sun going down, the air starts to fill up with the smell of barbeques and Amazigh music. Stalls begin to crop out of nowhere and before you know the whole place is teeming with performers – musicians, snake charmers, henna tattoo artists and other sellers. As we sat with our mint tea, we were just awe struck at this real life ‘backstage’ drama which deserves as much admiration as the evening extravaganza.


Orange juice seller of Jamma El-Fan - fresh and cheap!


So, we cannot recommend enough, taking the time out to see the square transform – only then you appreciate the magic behind the magic!


As the sun went down, we left our balcony theatre seat to be part of the performance. The square is packed with locals and tourists and as you navigate through the chaos, you realize the amazing order behind this chaos. The stalls have numbers and almost every artist and seller has their own spot. Freshly squeezed orange juice to snail soup – the square is nothing less than a food carnival. This is Moroccan fast food at its best – fresh, fast, inexpensive and amazingly delicious. Breads with dips, kebabs, spicy sausages and other selections is enough reason to step out of your comfort zone and have an experience.


Smoke and aroma of food in the air at Jamma El-Fna makes the experience unforgettable


As we sampled food from one stall to another, we got drawn in into the energy of the place – it is best to ‘open up’, share a laugh and reciprocate the cheer from the locals. They indeed have their own sense of humour combined with loud salesmanship! We also realized how popular Indian cinema was in this part of the world as we were called out with names of leading stars much to our astonishment!


Food seller at Jamma El-Fna - quick and fresh Moroccan street food


But do remember not to carry any valuables and just have your wits around! Its travel common sense that you can use to stay safe but still enjoy the spirit of a place!


As we walked around the shops and sellers, one old chubby lady asked us to try some woolly hats. She handpicked one with a long tassel and lovingly placed it on our head – and gave that proud motherly look – when your child looks smart in a new piece of clothing! We didn’t need any hats, but we got this one and till when we wear it, we get reminded of that look in her eyes! Indeed people make experiences and experiences make people!

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Writer's pictureSlow Coach

Updated: Mar 9, 2022


Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca

Casablanca is the largest city in Morocco in the central-western part with a population of over 3 million. Bordering the Atlantic Ocean, it is Morocco’s main port.

The city dates back to the 8th Century when Berbers, the indigenous people of Morocco, made it their capital and called it Anfa. It is believed to be one of the most prosperous cities on the Atlantic coast, thanks to its fertile land. However the Portuguese invaded Morocco in the 15th century, and built a military fortress and renamed it as ‘Casa Branca’ meaning ‘White House’. When the Crown of Portugal was integrated into the Crown of Spain, it was renamed Casablanca (Spanish). The city was however abandoned by the Portuguese following a massive earthquake in the 18th century, which destroyed most of the city.

The city was rebuilt by Sultan Mohammed-ben-Abdallah and was called ad-Dar Al-Beida (Arab translation of White House). The city came under French occupation at the beginning of the 20th century. After Morocco gained independence from France in 1956, the city has become one of the largest financial centres in Africa.


Casablanca railway station


It is called ‘Casa’ by the locals. It isn’t really touristy and has more of a modern cosmopolitan feel to it. The city's colonial past is evident in its fusion of Moorish and European art deco styles in architecture.

But what gives Casablanca universal appeal is the classic 1942 movie ‘Casablanca’. It is Hollywood's timeless definition of love and romance, with beautiful performances from Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Despite being set in Casablanca, none of the shots were filmed in the Kingdom of Morocco. Instead the film was shot entirely at Warner Bros. Studios in California with the exception of one sequence in Los Angeles. And of course there wasn’t any Rick’s Café- the cinematic gin joint in the movie- in reality in Casablanca!


Islamic artwork of Hassan II Mosque


It was later built by an American- Kathy Kriger, who decided to make a statement by investing in a Muslim country after leaving American diplomatic service after 9/11. With a timeless appeal of the movie Casablanca and the 'maginary' Rick’s Café, she was quick to spot the business opportunity of creating one for real! And she managed to got all the details to perfection. It is difficult to imagine that the Rick’s Café was actually built 62 years after the movie was released! It soon became a destination for tourists and locals. She was called ‘Madame Rick’ by the locals.

“If I’m honest, I always thought I would find a man while following my dream,” Ms. Kriger wrote in 2012 in a memoir about Rick’s. That didn’t happen, she said cheerfully. “Instead, with Rick looking over my shoulder, I found myself.” (www.nytimes.com). She passed away in 2018


Our train from Casablanca to Marrakech


Our visit to Casablanca was a last minute decision and therefore we hadn’t researched or planned our day like we usually do. Therefore we couldn’t really visit the inside of Hassan II Mosque or dine at Rick’s Café! The shops at the new medina were closed. But the grandeur of Hassan II Mosque even though only from outside, was worth the trip. Don’t expect this to be a dreamy touristy place… it is quite a modern cosmopolitan city.

Anyway we started our day very early and headed straight to station and bought first class tickets to Casablanca. It was a nice journey in a private coupe sipping coffee and looking out at the beautiful landscape.


Entry to Hassan II Mosque for traveller is only allowed as part of a guided tour


Hassan II Mosque – Just visiting this mosque justifies the travel to Casablanca. It was commissioned by King Hassan II, (hence the name) in memory of the departed King Mohammed V. It was designed by resident French Architect Michel Pinseau and does complete justice to the ambitious plans of King Hassan II to create the most impressive structure in Morocco. The mosque built partially on land and partially over the ocean looks as if emerging out of the Atlantic Ocean! Pinseau designed the building in such a way that it is able to endure earthquakes. The construction took 7 years to complete and was kind of a large scale employment opportunity to hundreds of workers and artisans. The minaret is the tallest in the world, standing at 210 meters and has lasers that shine in the direction of Mecca at night.


Islamic artwork of Hassan II Mosque


It is the probably one of the ten largest mosques of the world. The massive project is also therefore a fine example of engineering not only because it is built over land and water but also because it is built to endure earthquakes. It is no wonder therefore that it costed a fortune to build. The funding came through public donations. Up to 25,000 worshipers can be accommodated inside the mosque, it also includes modern features like heated floors, sliding roof and electric doors. The magnitude of the mosque, the unreal craftsmanship, the beauty of the archways, walls and the sprawling grounds and the overall explosion of colour and patterns make it a must see in Morocco.

Please remember however that non-Muslims are only allowed in the mosque as part of guided tours that take place throughout the day outside of prayer time. So plan ahead!


Empty Quartier Habous


Quartier Habous – Also called the New Medina, the Habous area was an endeavor by the French to mix Moroccan with French style. Near the New Medina is city palace of the King- you can linger around and look at the grand exterior- it is heavily guarded.

Before leaving Casablanca enjoy coffee in a local café. A visit to Rick’s café is on our list for next time!

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Updated: Mar 9, 2022

As such Morocco is a safe country and majority of the population is friendly. Still like any other popular destination, scams are common in all touristy spots and unfortunately many innocent tourists fall into these traps unknowingly. But do not let that should not put you off from travelling to this magnificent country. Some awareness of the surrounding and some precautions are all you need.


Here are the 5 common tourist scams we have seen during our trip to Morocco and how we managed them.


Its very common to be approached by a stranger offering to help


1. Friendly Moroccan showing you the way: This is a very common scam in Marrakech and other popular tourist destinations in Morocco where a friendly Moroccan appears out of nowhere and offers to show you the way to your destination or offer to help if you seem lost. If you accept this help you may be asked to pay for it usually ~50 Moroccan Dirhams which is ~5 USD. While wandering around in the narrow lanes of the Marrakesh souk we were approached this way many times- but we ignored by politely saying ‘la, shukraan’ (no thank you) with a big smile! Even after this, some determined souls may continue to follow you- Use la shukran tactic with a bigger smile and keep walking. They will be gone.


How to avoid this scam: To avoid getting lost in the streets or souk of Marrakech always carry a local map and mark the landmarks clearly on the map. Do not always depend on your phone! We used the map of Marrakech and it was very easy to follow the map while going from one attraction to another on foot. While going inside the souk try to remember a few landmarks or spots (such as a particular shop) that you can use as reference while coming out of the souk.


The common scam with snake


2. Picture with Snake and Monkey in Jemaa El-Fna: During day time and till early evening, while walking in and around the big square of Jemaa El-Fna, tourists get approached by snake charmers (non-venomous) and some with monkeys. They approach you and place the snake or the monkey around your neck or shoulder and offer to take a picture for you. On many occasions it is done this almost forcefully and some may even take your camera for this before you can react. The real scam starts from this point- they will ask for 100 to 200 Moroccan Dirhams which is roughly 10-20 USD for the picture and may even refuse to give back the camera unless the money is paid. On some occasions they unleash the monkey for a second time on tourists who are otherwise uncomfortable when in contact with the animal. While we were walking around the square we were approached by a snake charmer who suddenly placed the snake around my neck. As we was aware about this, we just decided to walk away with the snake and that guy had to follow us. Soon the scammer realized that we know how the scam works and he took the snake off me and walked away.


How to avoid this scam: The best possible way is too refuse firmly and taking a few steps back quickly or just walking away. Be aware of your surroundings while walking around the square and try to locate anyone approaching you early as it gives you time to react and step back.

3. Fake tour guides in Marrakech and Berber villages, Atlas Mountains: Fake tour guide approaches you claiming to be an official tour guide from the tourism board. They carry real looking ID cards to convince you of their authenticity. In majority of the cases they offer tours around the tourist attractions for a reasonable sum of money, but then they will take you to a shop and convince you to buy something as this is where they earn their commission. Or they may take you to restaurants claiming that the restaurant serves the best local food. In the Berber village outside Marrakech, these fake guides approach you as soon as you step out of the car and may keep following you so much so that you agree to take the service just to avoid the harassment. We experienced the same when we arrived at the Berber village - we were approached by a number of fake guides. When we refused, a couple of them kept walking ahead of us to the mountain to 'show' the way. It soon reached the point where we clearly told them that we will not pay him even if they come with us to the top. We then turned around and took a little break and sat down in a small shop and ordered a drink which made them finally give up and walk away.


How to avoid the scam: If approached by random tour guides, the chances of them being fake is high and therefore the best way avoid is to firmly refuse them when approached. If the scammer persists, ask them to come with you to the local tourist office so you can verify the authenticity of the service and price to pay for the service. This should deter them. In our opinion if a guide is needed for city tour or day trip out of Marrakech, taking the service from Get Your Guide would ensure a hassle free experience.

4. Pickpockets on the streets and souks of Marrakech: Like many other big touristy cities around the world, Marrakech has its own gang of pickpockets who target tourists onthe crowded streets around Jemaa Le-Fna. Most of these pickpockets work in groups and follow a target - usually someone that has any valuables on display like watch, mobile phone, jewellery etc. In most cases one of them distract the victim and the other one walks away with the valuable even before you realize.


How to avoid this: Always be aware of your surroundings. Try to keep any valuable in the hotel locker (if staying in a reputable hotel) and only carry what is needed. Keep your money/cards in a small pouch or wallet in the front pocket. If carrying a camera bag or back pack, try to keep that in front instead of carrying it on the back. Also investing in an anti-theft bag is always a good option if you like to travel.

5. Overinflated price of souvenirs and other local crafts in shops in Marrakesh souk: Most of the shops in souk selling souvenirs, leather goods, spices and other items put a high price for tourists.


How to avoid this: Avoid asking for prices if you don’t intend to buy it. If you plan to buy something, ask for the price and offer a bit less than what you think is reasonable to give you room to haggle. It is the culture in some parts of the world and can be a good way to interact with the locals. If what you offer is not acceptable, thank them and walk away, you will be called if the seller still has some room for profit – if not, it means he usually sells it for more, so use that as a benchmark for next time!

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