Jordan - Our Travel Diary

Duration - 8 days (May 2017)

Getting there - Jordan’s capital city of Amman is the gateway to the country by air. Queen Alia International Airport in Amman is well-connected with most of the major European, Asian, Middle Eastern and North African cities via direct or one stop flights. We flew Royal Jordanian from London Heathrow to Amman (just over 5 hrs non-stop).

When to go - The best time to travel to Jordan is during Spring (From March to May) or during Autumn (September to November). During these months the weather is prefect for sightseeing and cool enough to explore the ancient sights and natural beauty of the country.

What to buy - If you like to get a little something more than your memories and photos, then get some freshly ground cardamom coffee or different spice blends from a local supermarket, there is also a variety of beautiful pottery to choose from, and based on your budget you could also splash on some beautiful mosaics. Try some local street shops for some real and quirky finds.

Staying comfortable - The geography, climate and culture means that you are better off with breathable and modest clothing. Always carry a light jacket, sunglasses, hat or scarf- the heat can be relentless but at the same time the evenings can be chilly. The obvious but important- always carry water with you. If you are travelling with children carrying some fruit juice and snacks keeps them hydrated and energetic.

Our itinerary -

We started our Jordan exploration from Amman. Amman, like many other capital cities is a beautiful mix of the by-gone era and modern development, the Roman ruins and amphitheatre standing in harmony with the modern ‘Boulevard’ - the shopping and food district of Amman.

Day 1 - Full day sightseeing in Amman

Spend day 1 exploring Amman - a visit to the Amman Citadel, Roman Amphitheatre, Royal Automobile Museum, King Abdulla Mosque and downtown Amman will fill up your day. Day ones are always about getting a feel for the place - so keeping it nice and relaxed always puts you on the right frame of mind.

The Temple of Hercules, Amman Citadel

Roman Amphitheatre, Amman

The evening was nice and breezy and we dined at the ‘Vivid’ a rooftop restaurant in Boulevard Amman. Sitting there enjoying our meal made us a bit emotional. We had heard stories during the day as to how people between Jordan and Syria travelled for sight seeing and picnics when life was ‘normal’. Less than 100 miles from where we sat was a world torn apart by years of war. It is difficult not to be moved with what conflict does to a place and its people… silently hoping that peace and happiness and normalcy returned to those people…

Day 2 - Full day trip to North Jordan

Part of the North of the country can be covered from Amman as a day trip. We had visited the following,

The town of Salt: The town of Salt has its own significance as the Ottoman trading hub which reflects its Ottoman architecture. A visit to the Abu Jaber Museum and strolling through the street markets of Salt will transport you back in time. Read our experience at Salt here. We also had some delicious freshly made ‘Awameh’ and ‘Qatayef’ - offered by a couple of Hussam’s (our guide) many friends! As we stood chatting to locals- we were invited by one of them to see the renovation work he was doing to a century old property… we always love the connections humans can make even when you don’t speak the language and don’t belong to that place.

Bread seller from the Bazar of Salt

The fruit and vegetable seller in the Bazar of Salt

The Ajloun Castle: This is a ‘must see’ in our opinion, the old walls and alleyways of this 12th century hilltop castle is full of stories from the past. The view of the northern terrain of Jordan from the top of Ajloun Castle is breath-taking and reveals the secret of its strategic location. This is where you fully appreciate where you are standing and how close all the conflict zones are!

The Roman Ruins of Jerash: Jordan’s largest and most interesting Roman ruins will take couple of hours if not less. Stroll through the stone paved streets of the ruin city of Jerash to appreciate its true beauty. The heat can be relentless during the day- so take breaks and stay hydrated. Like all Roman ruins, the enormity and openness make the heat more unbearable.

Gerasa's Main Street, Roman Ruins of Jerash

The Oval Plaza of the Romain Ruins of Jerash

Day 3 - Central Jordan – Madaba, Mount Nebo and Al Maghtas

The central part of the country has huge religious and historical significance that attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims from around the world every year.

Madaba: The town of Madaba is the home to the famous ‘The Madaba Map’ also known as the Madaba Mosaic Map, a floor mosaic in the early Byzantine church of Saint George. The famous Madaba Mosaic Map depicts Jerusalem which includes area from Lebanon in the north, the Nile Delta in the south, the Mediterranean Sea in the west and the desert in the East. Among other important features, the map also depicts the Dead Sea and animals such as lion and gazelle. The other important sites to visit in Madaba are The Church of The Apostles and Church of the Beheading of John The Baptist, both of which house impressive mosaics.

The Church of Saint George, Madaba

The Map of Madaba on the floor of the Church of Saint George

The mosaic on the floor of the Church of the Apostles

Mount Nebo: Just outside Madaba is another very significant and religious site, Mount Nebo- which is according to the Bible is where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land and according to many historians is the burial site of Moses. At top of Mount Nebo is the 4th century Moses Memorial Church which houses some of the best mosaics in Jordan, dating from around 530 A.D. Among the many mosaics the masterpiece is a hunting and herding scene which depicts an assortment of African fauna including lion, zebu, zebra, ostrich and camel-shaped giraffe.

Moses Memorial Church and the Valley in the background, Mount Nebo

The mosaic of the Moses Memorial Church, Mount Nebo

Al Maghtas: Downhill from Mount Nebo towards the River Jordan is the most important religious site of Jordan – Al Maghtas, believed to be actual site where Jesus was baptised. Situated on the eastern bank of the River Jordan, this is a UNESCO world heritage site. It consists of two main archaeological areas – Jabal Mar-Elias (the remnants of a monastery on a mound) and an area close to the river with remains of churches, baptism ponds and pilgrim and hermit dwellings. Throughout the year pilgrims from around the would flock to this holy site to take a dip in the River Jordan which is barely few meters in width and is also the border between Jordan and The West Bank of Israel. This was also one of the wow moments- standing at such an important site and seeing Israel just across the river. Just a head’s up that you do get pushed to buy souvenirs before you leave.

Jesus baptism site at Al Maghtas

Dead Sea: A short drive will take you to the dead sea- time to relax!! Enjoy some sumptuous dinner at your resort – we went for an American style burger – there weren’t too many options to choose from, but the surroundings make up for everything. As the day evolved into evening, we stopped to watch the sunset – a truly beautiful experience. Whoever came up with the idea of placing the wooden chairs is a genius!

Sunset by Dead Sea

Sunset by Dead Sea

Day 4 – Dead Sea Floating and drive to Wadi Musa – Petra

Dead Sea Floating: All big resorts have their share of the ‘private beach’ of the Dead Sea. Start early to experience the sunrise over Dead Sea, with barely any people in the morning it’s the best time to enjoy a relaxing float in Dead Sea. The water is packed with minerals and has an almost oily texture. Avoid dead sea water getting into your eyes! there are usually pots of dead sea clay that you can use to rejuvenate your skin before you take a shower. We enjoyed another dip in the infinity pool before having a hearty breakfast and starting off for Wadi Musa – Petra. Looking back, we wish we had another day at dead sea – just enjoying the beautiful resort and the magical floating experience!

Wadi Musa – Petra: On the way to the town of Wadi Musa lies the canyon of Wadi Mujib, a jaw-dropping canyon through which Mujib river runs into the Dead Sea. This place is a must visit attraction for adventure seekers for day long hiking while following the Mujib river on foot through the canyon. Take some stops at the Al Tafilah Mountain on King’s highway. The scenery is worth everything, A long drive through the rugged landscape of the Al Tafilah Mountain leads to the town of Wadi Musa, the home of one of the seven wonders of the world – the ancient hidden city of Petra by late afternoon. We checked in into our hotel and headed outside to explore Petra during late afternoon for couple of hours before the gates to Petra closes. Dinners are always nice in the middle east – and so are the nights.

The canyon of Wadi Mujib

The view of Al Tafilah Mountain

Day 5 – Petra and its magic!

Petra during the day – Start early to beat the heat, a long 2 mile walk through the ‘siq’ (narrow gorge) opens up to Petra Treasury. This is one of those ‘lifetime experiences’! Take time to take it in!! The way the light travels through the siq and then brings you face to face with the giant structure from history is something that cannot be really described in words. the Bedouins dressed up especially the fake Johny Depp (Pirates of the Caribbean) adds to the feel of the place.

The siq of Petra

The end of the siq which reveals the Petra Treasury

Beyond the Treasury there are many more historic sites to explore within the city of Petra, among which the most significant one is Petra Monastery which is situated at the top of a mountain. It isn’t easy travelling up the steep mountain path as the air gets thinner and you may feel your heart pounding like disco music! Take breaks, hydrate and take it slow. There are donkey and mule ride options – the subject of using them are debatable. Head back to the hotel and put your feet up! Dinner is served in a traditional tent overlooking the beautiful setting. We witnessed the making of the ‘Zarb’ – a Bedouin delicacy with meat, veggies and rice that is cooked underground and tastes like made in heaven!

Horse carriage in Petra

Obelisk Tomb, Petra

Petra Treasury

The Royal Tombs of Petra

The Monastery of Petra

Petra by night – At night this beauty throws in another spell. Some clever mind came up with the idea of lighting the siq leading to the Treasury and the ground in front of the Treasury with thousands of candles. The atmosphere gets elevated to another level when the sounds of Bedouin music flows through the air under the night sky in the hidden city of Petra and get mixed with the hypnotic dancing flames of candles.

Sunset over Petra from Bedouin Tent

Sunset over Petra Mountains

Petra by Night at Treasury

Day 6 - Drive to Wadi Rum

After breakfast at Petra leave for Wadi Rum. The landscape changes from rugged mountainous to harsh and ruthless deserts during the drive from Wadi Musa to the desert of Wadi Rum. The desert highway that connects these two places was used as makeshift runway for fighter jets from the Arab Coalition Force during the ‘6 day war’…

Arrive at Wadi Rum village in the afternoon post lunch to be picked up by the Desert camp 4x4 vehicle. This is quite a ride. Long rugged terrains and the vastness make you feel small and wobbly! Check into desert camp- there are a few options to choose from and the quality of the service depends on the provider. If you can choose the ’Bubble Tent’ to enjoy the stunning view of the desert sky at night. Stay indoors during afternoons to avoid being charred and blown off. The desert is in all its ruthless right during mid-day.

As evening sets in the temperature drops and it’s time to crawl out of your burrows and enjoy a drink or two. Now is the time to catch the sunset experience and join one of the guided walking tours around the desert.

As night falls you see the zillions of stars dazzling in the desert sky – visibility is high with no light pollution. Sit back and gaze at the stars while the fire and mint tea keep you warm. The sounds of the Bedouin music and the food create the ambience … slowly the torches dwindle and the music fades away and it’s time to hit the sack!

Desert of Wadi Rum

Bedouin delicacy Zarb

Day 7 - Wadi Rum safari

Start early to witness the beautiful sunrise with Bedouin tea and morning walk. Post breakfast head for the desert safari of Wadi Rum. This is the place which ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ once used to call his home!

Sunrise in the desert of Wadi Rum

Bedouin Tea in the desert of Wadi Rum

You will be taken to the Umm Fruth Rock Bridge, khazali siq (canyon), Little Rock Bridge, Lawrence’s House, Alameleh Inscriptions, Al Hasany Dunes and Burdah Rock Bridge. Its wonderful in the desert until the sun comes overhead. Take a moment to appreciate the almost ‘lunarscape’ on the face of planet earth. The outer space type feeling you experience tells you why Martian was shot here!

At top of Umm Fruth Rock Bridge

Alameleh Inscriptions

Lunarscape of Wadi Rum

4X4 Desert safari in Wadi Rum

St. Stephen's Church and it's mosaics: Arrive back at Wadi Rum Village to be picked up by the hired car to travel back to Amman. On the way back to Amman stop at St. Stephen’s Church in Umm er-Rasas - A roman ruin site which also houses many mosaics. Arrive back in Amman by evening. Check-in into the hotel and visit the local market or shopping malls if that takes your fancy. Cardamom coffee from Jordan is heavenly!! We wish we bought more!

St. Stephen’s Church in Umm er-Rasas

Mosaic from St. Stephen’s Church in Umm er-Rasas

Floor mosaic from St. Stephen’s Church in Umm er-Rasas

Day 8 - Home time!

We checked out and headed back to the airport.

Our Travel Diary - Central Sri Lanka

View of the surrounding hills from Little Adam's Peak, Ella

Duration – 10 days (February 2018)

Getting there – Sri Lanka’s Bandaranaike International Airport near the capital city of Colombo is well connected by air with Middle East, Asia and European cities via direct or one stop flights. We flew Qatar Airways from London Heathrow via Doha (one stop with 13.5 hours of travel time including stopover)

When to go – The best time to travel to Sri Lanka is from November through to March. During these months the weather is cool enough to enjoy the historic sights and the natural beauty of Sri Lanka. During these months the costal weather is excellent all through the day, water temperature is prefect for a swim in the oceans, and with minimal rain if any, makes this time ideal for beach holidays.

What to buy – Sri Lanka offers amazing handicrafts to bring back home – head to the government shop of Laksala for wooden and leather handicrafts (Sri Lankan Masks are beautiful pieces of art). The proceeds go directly to the craftsmen and thus supports the art and the artist and sustains local economy.

Staying comfortable – The tropical weather means shorts and light T-shirts are the best options while in Sri Lanka. However you may a light raincoat or jacket if you are the tea growing hilly region of the central part of the country .

Our itinerary

Day 6 – Ella Sight Seeing, Tea Factor Visit and Scenic Train Ride

Little Adam’s Peak: After witnessing a beautiful sunrise followed by a filling breakfast enjoying the hills views, we started our day with a trek to little Adam’s peak. We trekked through scenic and working tea plantation for just over an hour. We stopped to take pictures and just soaking in the wonderful views.

The trek was well worth the time as the view from the peak was of the Ella town and surrounding areas was stunning. After a little rest we headed back stopping on the way to drink fresh coconut water. We arrived at the carpark just around noon and it was time to devour some more good food as a reward for all the trekking.

Walking through the tea gardens of Ella - the track to Little Adam's Peak

Tea gardens of Ella

View of the surrounding hills from Little Adam's Peak, Ella

Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory: After lunch we headed to Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory for a tea factory tour. The hour-long guided tour of the tea factory was very informative and interesting. It was apparent that the guide took great pride in the history and heritage of Ceylon Tea. We were among the few people and the whole experience was nice and not rushed. After the tour we had a tea tasting session which was a big hit with Oviyan. He thoroughly enjoyed his time at the team factory which was a little bit of a surprise for us!

Tea tasting season at Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory, Ella

Locals at work near a tea garden of Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory

The fresh picking

Haputale to Ella Train journey: The train journey from Kandy to Haputale via Ella is considered one of the top 10 most scenic train journeys in the world. The train passes though the hilly countryside, chugging alongside spectacular tea plantations and small villages. We chose to travel from Haputale to Ella by train as this stretch is perhaps most scenic part of the train Journey. Our driver dropped us as the Haputale railway station and met us back at Ella. This is about 1.5 hours by road.

The railway station itself was a quaint little place quite reminiscent of the British rule and its influence on the architecture. We bought a one-way ticket from the counter and couldn’t help but laugh out loud when the station master literally cut a ticket into half with scissors because Oviyan only needed a ‘half’ ticket. These were the little brown tickets made of cardboard that we had during our childhood days! The station master though wasn’t tickled and gave us a stern look with his glasses resting at the very end of his nose.

Haputale train station

Though the station itself was nice and clean we could have skipped the toilet visit. We sat and waited for the train to arrive. The train was late by 30 min and when it arrived all the restless passengers made a beeline to get in first. We had imagined soaking in the views but to our dismay the train was full with no empty seat. We found different places to stand and as long term married couple communicated with our eyes- ‘really are we supposed to squeeze in between people’s suitcases on this beautiful journey?’ and ‘hang in there – people will surely get off at the next stop!’ But that was not meant to be! Only more people boarded the train the next station. Determined not to let this ruin the experience we just headed to the door and sat down there! The view was bigger and better and the wind came right in to kiss Oviyan’s face and he couldn’t believe that it was real – that he sat there with his orange juice and enjoying the wonderful views and experiencing a thrill that was unimaginable in UK! But for us this was nostalgia – the sound of the rhythmic chugging and whistles of the train, the wind blowing on your face and friendly banter with complete strangers. When we got off Oviyan couldn’t contain his smile and looking at him we couldn’t contain ours!

We ended this amazing day with dinner at Ceylon Tea Factory – a beautifully restored abandoned tea factory with lots of reminders to its past. After dinner we decided to walk back though it was raining as holding an umbrella is always high on a 5-year old’s wishlist!

The sonic ride through tea gardens from Haputale to Ella

Day 7 - Ella to Kandy via Nuyara Ellia

We started the day early and left Ella just before 7 am in the morning. Aunty (our hotel owner) gave us a big packed breakfast for the road.

Aadishakti Seeta Amman Temple. (Sita Mata Temple): Just before entering the town of Nuwara Eliya we stooped for our first tourist attraction of the day – the Sita Temple. This temple is associated with the mythological saga of Ramayana and is believed to be the place where Sita was kept captive by Rawana. Hanumana had come here to bring the message of Rama and surprisingly the temple is thronged by monkeys. The architecture of the Hindu temple is beautiful and the surroundings have a magical effect.

Aadishakti Seeta Amman Temple

Nuwara Eliya: Also known as the ‘Little England; Nuwara Eliya felt British with all the colonial-era bungalows, but the landscape very different from England. The terraced team plantations are mountains are shrouded with mist and the magic that is so typical of tea growing regions. One main attraction is the Gregory Lake which is a reservoir was built by Governor William Gregory between 1872 and 1877. The park near the lake has things like speed boat, swan boats, dinky boats etc. The park around it has a walkway and its well maintained. So can take a saunter stroll along the area’s 5 km path. The view is worth a visit but we just decided to skip boat rides (and swan boats!) and headed towards our next stop.

Nuwara Eliya Lake

Damro Labookellie Tea Centre and Tea garden: Few kilometres away from Nuwara Eliya is the Dambo Tea Company. We went for a factory tour, as Oviyan was in love with tea factory tours but it was disappointing - too commercial, crowded and rushed and nothing like the one we experienced in Ella. However the visitor centre in Damro Tea Centre was quite well organized with a nice spacious place to drink tea and a restaurant at the upper level which offered nice buffet lunch at a reasonable price. After lunch we headed towards Kandy but stopped quite a few times on the way to enjoy the scenic beauty of the central hills and tea gardens of the Sri Lanka. We arrived at Kandy in the late afternoon and checked into our hotel and called it a day.

Tea Gardens of Damro Labookellie Tea Centre, near Nuwara Eliya

Day 8 - Kandy Cultural Dance and Visit to Temple of Sacred Tooth Relic

Kandy Fruit and vegetable Market: We started our day with a visit to the Kandy fruit and vegetable market. It is a busy and thriving place with an amazing array of colourful fruits and vegetables mainly for wholesale trade. This is not really a touristy place and were the only ‘aliens’ in an otherwise local trading place. But we absolutely enjoy going to local markets as nothing else quite gives the feel of a place like the local markets do! People were pleasant and Oviyan also got a few bananas from this friendly bunch.

Kandy Fruit and vegetable Market

Bahiravokanda Vihara Buddha Statue: Our next stop was the hilltop Buddha statue in the town of Kandy. The beautiful tall white statue of Buddha and the view from the top was great and was worth a visit.

Kandy Viewpoint: After lunch we took some well-deserved rest and then headed towards the Kandy viewpoint. This hilltop viewpoint is a nice place from where you can get a bird’s eye view of the Kandy Lake, Royal palace and Sacred Tooth Relic temple.

Kandy cultural dance

Kandy Cultural Dance: This was perhaps one of the most magical time of our cultural discovery of Sri Lanka. We went to the Kandy Art Association in the evening to witness the Kandy cultural dance. As we waited in a dark hall, we didn’t really know what to expect and were trying to read through the brochure they provided us. It seemed like a long wait but then the program which was roughly an hour and half in duration was just spectacular! A dazzling display of a variety of dances. As we clapped hands and gave a standing ovation to the artists, little did we know that the showstopper was yet to come! We headed outside we saw people congregating around some other performers. We stood with our mouths open as the performers danced with fire and walked on fire (smouldering coal). Fire-walking is something we have witnessed in Tamil Nadu in India - this is a festival called Themeethi and is celebrated by Tamil Hindus globally but mainly in India, Sri-Lanka, Singapore, Malaysia and even South Africa. Fire symbolizes purification in Hindu belief and this ceremony is also has the same underlying theme. Witnessing this surrounded by people from all over the globe, as the sun went down and amidst drums and other traditional music was an experience. Somethings stay with you forever and this was definitely one of those.

Cultural Dance at Kandy

Cultural dance and performance at Kandy Art Association

Temple of Sacred Tooth Relic: After the cultural dance show we walked to the Temple of Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa) which was 5 min walk from the Art Association. However, we reached there just in time (that’s a different story)- the temple closes at 8 pm so we didn’t get as much time as we would have wanted but still managed to attend the evening prayer. Kandy was the last capital of the Sri Lankan kings and is also a World Heritage Site mainly due to the temple. The golden-roofed Temple of the Sacred Tooth houses Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist relic – a tooth of the Buddha. However, you don’t really get to see the tooth as it is kept in a gold stupa shaped and is heavily guarded. Rituals are performed three times daily: at dawn, at noon and in the evenings and during the puja (prayers) the room containing the tooth is open to visitors. It was great to be able to catch the evening prayers and get a glimpse of the casket. Apart from the main temple the complex also includes a series of smaller temples, shrines and museums. Like the Vatican city is this place has been the power hold of Sri-Lanka from ancient times to now and has also survived bombings.

Entrance to the Temple of Sacred Tooth Relic

Meticulous art work inside Temple of Sacred Tooth Relic

Day 9 - Kandy to Dambulla, Dehigaha Ella

After breakfast we left for Dambulla.

Matale Hindu temple: On the way to Dambulla we stopped at Matale Hindu Temple which had a very dramatic exterior and interior with colourful statues of Hindu deities and beautiful architecture. It must be noted non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple and the easiest vetting process was to filter out westerners or Muslims or anyone that doesn’t resemble a Hindu. We offered our prayers and walked through temple complex before continuing our journey to Dambulla.

Matale Hindu temple

Elaborate work of Matale Hindu temple

Dambulla Cave Temple: Dambulla cave temple also called royal cave temple or Ran-Giri cave temple complex is made up of five separate caves containing around 150 spectacular Buddha statues and paintings. It sits on top of a hill and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the largest and best-preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka and dates to the first century BC when ousted King Valagamba Anuradhapura, took refuge here. After he regained his throne, he ordered the interior of the caves to be carved into rock temples. Subsequent kings added more paintings, but most notable is King Nissanka Malla, who had the caves’ interiors gilded, earning the place the name Ran Giri (Golden Rock). Retouching and addition of new paintings has continued over the years but in line with the overall soul of the cave. From the caves you can get magnificent views over the surrounding countryside; including Sigiriya. This is one of those places that cannot and shouldn’t be rushed - spend time to marvel at the jaw-dropping paintings and statues.

Dambulla Cave Temple

Dambulla Cave Temple

Dambulla Cave Temple

Back and Beyond Tree house at Dehigaha Ela: After finishing the visit to Dambulla Cave temple by noon we left for our nature adventure at Dehigaha Ela. At a village near Sigiriya we were picked up by the Back and Beyond vehicle driver. After a good 45-minute drive through dirt road and into the wilderness, we and arrived at the Tree house resort of Wild Heaven by back and Beyond. The accommodation was a nature resort which has a handful of tree-houses in the lap of nature. We enjoyed a hearty lunch made from ingredients sourced from villages around the resort. The place also has a pool with fish that feed on dead skin, so is a very natural fish-spa! We took a dip and enjoyed the walk around the place followed by some tea. Without any internet connection it was a great way to actually experience nature living and mindfulness. For our full experience at Dehigaha Ela please read more here.

Our tree house at Back and Beyond at Dehigaha Ela

The freshwater pool at Dehigaha Ela

Day 10 - Dambulla and back to Airport

We were woken up with the sound of birds chirping and a hornbill perched on the balcony of our tree house. We enjoyed the sunrise with our tea and looking at the calm Lilly pond. After breakfast we bid goodbye to this little slice of heaven and left for the meeting point were our driver was waiting with his car. As this was our last day we decided to take it easy and therefore skip our visit to Sigirya rock. Instead we visited a Gem factory, and batik print factory in Sigiriya area and picked up a beautiful painting of a Sri-Lankan dancer- something we had witnessed, and it was therefore a beautiful reminder of our time in this amazing country.

After this we left for the airport which was good 3 to 4 hours’ drive stopping on the way for lunch. We arrived at Negombo late evening; we also visited a beautiful local Buddhist temple. Our driver Chanaka’s home was on the way to the airport and he insisted we visit his house to meet with his family and a cup of tea. By this time, we knew a lot about Chanaka and his life. We had a nice time at his home and looked through his family album while sipping some nice homemade ginger tea. It’s amazing how in a matter of few days, you make such lasting connections. Our flight back to UK was on time and we left Sri Lanka with a heart full of happy memories and SD card full of amazing pictures to cherish for life.

Our Pick of Best Jordanian Food

We believe food is the window to a place and its people!

Food of a region reflects the culture, heritage, history, geography and natural resources of a place. Jordan is no exception to this. The rustic yet delicious food of Jordan tells stories about this region and how people of Jordan for hundreds of years have made most of what was available in this region and that over the years has developed into one of the most extraordinary cuisines.

Due to its location, Jordanian food has had huge influences from the Mediterranean, Persian, Middle Eastern and North African cuisines.

We devoured everything- from the humble hummus to the rustic but complex Bedouin delicacy ‘Zarb’. Here are the top 15 dishes we have tried and loved during our trip to Jordan.

1. Hummus

Hummus is perhaps the brand ambassador of Middle Eastern food!!

But you don’t know the real deal until you eat it in the middle east - so while we were there, we were eating hummus at every meal. It is a league apart from its western supermarket cousins!

The effortless but delicate balance between the chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice and olive oil makes it addictive!

Hummus

2. Moutabel

Very similar to baba ghanoush yet very different!

Moutabel is also quite a celebrity the world over - this smoky silky-smooth roasted aubergine (eggplant) dip works like magic in your mouth when paired with some warm fluffy bread!! Baba ghanoush on the other hand has tahini (sesame puree) but there are regional variations (with other veggies and without etc.)

Moutable

3. Falafel

So when you want to go healthy you choose falafel wraps! Falafels are everywhere in Jordan - these crispy, light fluffy beauties made with chickpeas paste bathed in herbs and spices are best eaten hot! They are deep fried and made into a wrap. The best falafel we had during our stay in Jordan was in Madaba from a dainty little but super crowded shop which was just outside the Church of Saint George.

Deep fried Falafel

Falafel in Pitta Bread

4. Zarb

This is a big brother of Jordanian food. A truly Bedouin dish that is cooked underground. A mixture of chicken, lamb, rice and vegetables (onion, carrot and potatoes) are placed on tiered trays with rice on the bottom. This setup then goes into a hole in the ground which first gets filled with red hot coal. The hole is then covered with rag/blanket and topped with sand on to seal the heat underground. This is a slow cooking process and after a few hours the grilled meat and vegetables comes out where the succulent meat and chicken fall off the bone. Zarb is mainly prepared in the desert area of Jordan and we ate this both in Wadi Musa (near Petra) and in Wadi Rum.

Zarb just out from underground oven

The delicacy - Zarb

5. Lamb Fukhara

This is a clay pot dish where the rice and the lamb are packed in a clay pot and slow cooked over charcoal. This is traditionally a Palestinian dish. Slow cooking keeps the meat succulent and the rice flavoured with all the juice and flavour of the lamb.

Lamb Fukhara

6. Mansaf

If there is one Jordanian dish that is without any doubt is most talked about and most popular among the locals and tourists then it has to be Mansaf. No trip to Jordan is complete without eating a plate of this Jordanian delicacy which often considered as the national dish of Jordan. This dish is unique to Jordan and only found in this region of the Middle East. Typically mansaf is made up of three parts – rice, lamb and ‘jameed’. Jameed is a thick gravy which is made from rehydrating hard dried out fermented goat milk yogurt which is finally is poured over the rice and lamb.

Mansaf with a bowl of Jameed

7. Shish Kebabs

Shish Kebabs need no introduction!

Very popular in Jordan and across the Middle East these are deliciously marinated chicken, mince lamb, grilled over hot charcoal in skewers along with peppers and tomatoes. They are served with thin bread and can be eaten with dips like hummus and moutabel.

Lamb and Chicken Shish Kebab

8. Chicken Liver

Typically served as mezze dish, chicken liver is a unique Jordanian dish. Lightly marinated with garlic, parsley and salt, chicken livers are sautéed in olive oil and served hot. The best chicken liver dish should be light in seasoning and creamy in texture. This can be eaten on its own or with bread and hummus.

Slowed cooked chicken liver in oil and herbs

9. Shawarma

Another very popular street food of Jordan which is similar to the Greek souvlaki or Turkish kebab. Typically made with chicken, lamb or beef, the slow grilled meat is served wrapped in bread with a dash of garlic sauce, tahini and pickled vegetables. The boneless chicken, lamb or beef are stacked on a large skewer and rotated slowly to grill the meat. The crispy outer layer is skilfully shaved off as thin slices with a knife. The best shawarmas in Jordan are typically found in street shops.

Chicken Shawarma in hot grill

Lamb Shawarma

10. Kofta Bi Tahini

Kofta Bi Tahini is a dish of minced kebab/kofta, potato and thick tahini sauce. The koftas are placed at the bottom of shallow bowl, then topped with slices of potato and then filled with tahini sauce and baked. This is best served with rice as a main course.

Kofta Bi Tahini

11. Fatayer Jebneh (Cheese Pies)

This is a very traditional Jordanian dish we tasted in Wadi Musa (Petra). Small diamond shaped pastries filled with goat cheese or minced meat. The opening in the middle gives a sneak peek into the filling. Mainly eaten as snacks or in between meals, these taste best when hot.

Fatayer Jebneh

12. Awameh

These are the small dough balls that are deep fried in oil and then soaked in honey or sugar syrup. ‘Awameh’ in Arabic literally means floater, as these float on oil while frying. Awameh goes well with a cup of strong Arabic coffee.

Awameh

13. Atayef (Qataeyf)

Qataeyf is a popular pastry dish in Middle East, especially during Ramadan. Much like pancakes, these are made from a thick batter which is poured over a hot pan. These are only cooked on one side - once they turn golden, they are filled with cream, cheese, nuts and soaked in sugar syrup.

Atayef or also know as Qataeyf

14. Bedouin tea

This is more popular in the central and south part of the country, especially in the desert areas. What makes the Bedouin tea special is the use of wild herbs like wild sage and thyme which grows in abundance in Jordan and other places in the Middle East. The water is first boiled at length with sugar and herbs before adding the tea leaves. A cup of Bedouin tea is best enjoyed in the desert of Wadi Rum at sunset or at sunrise.

Bedouin Tea made in wood fire

Early morning Bedouin tea in the desert of Wadi Rum

15. Bread

Breads are essential part of Jordanian diet and the main source of carbohydrates. Almost all restaurants in Jordan give complimentary bread with starters and with main course. Fresh and hot bread is heavenly and works wonders when paired with dips, grilled meat and veggies.

The simple but essential part of Jordanian cuisine - bread