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Updated: Feb 14, 2024



Udaipur brings up images of historical buildings, royalty, destination weddings and an abundance of beautiful lakes! But this small city steeped in history is also very rich in its food. The food really reflects the ingenuity of the local people who have made the best use of what is available locally and seasonally. With an innovative mix of spices, flours, lentils and some vegetables, there has emerged bountiful cuisines, that really give you the true flavour of this place! And thankfully, the love of local food among the people of Udaipur has ensured that it remains authentic and unfazed by the ‘globalization’ we see everywhere! So if you really want to get a true taste of Udaipur head to the narrow alleyways and discover all the hidden gems!


1. Masala Papad at Roop Ji Nasta Centre

Address: 57, Singhat Wadiya St, Moti Chohatta, Bada Bazar, Nada Khada, Udaipur


The flavourful crunchy padap severed with the spice potato and kadhi


If you happen to be in Udaipur, try out masala papad and curry for breakfast at Roop Ji Nasta Centre in Bada Bazar area. This is almost like a deconstructed samosa or an open samosa where the casing of the samosa is fried separately and served with spicy potato filling and a sweet kadhi (yoghurt based gravy). Locally, this is called as masala papad. The papad is crunchy and mild which perfectly balances the the spicy potato and the delicate sweetness of the kadhi.


The owner and cook Roop ji, who always greet his customers with a big smile in his face


We found the owner and cook Roop ji a humble and true gentleman. He serves his famous masala papad, kesar chai (saffron tea) and few other breakfast items from the shop that his father started 60 years back. Despite being very busy serving other customers he found time to speak with us with a big smile on his face. His masala papad has made him quite famous among food bloggers, yet he remains very humble and has maintained the taste and quality of his food.


2. Paratha at Sai Baba Paratha Centre

Address: Mehta Ji Ki, Badi Maheshwari St, Old City, Nada Khada, Udaipur


The owner who fry hundreds of parathas each day


If you fancy a mouth-watering heavenly aloo paratha, head straight to Sri Baba Paratha Centre at Nada Khada, old city area in Udaipur. Also recommended by Lonely Planet, this place is quite popular for breakfast among locals, food lovers and travellers.


Freshly made parathas bathed in pure ghee are served with butter, daal (Lentil curry) and a spicy pickle. This place offers a wide range of parathas like aloo, paneer etc. and some seasonal specials such as gobhi (cauliflower), mooli (radish), methi (fenugreek) are only available during winter. Just relish each mouthful and don’t bother with counting calories.


3. Hing (asafoetida) Kachori at Paliwal Restaurant

Address: 26, Jagdish Temple Rd, Old City, Udaipur


This small shop keep serving customers mouth watering kachoris for over 4 decades


There are many places to try hing kachori in Udaipur. However, the quality and tase of the kachoris here put it on top league! Established for over 40 years Paliwal restaurant serves fresh kachoris in the morning which are flaky on outside and soft inside. The filling is made of moong daal and besan (gram flour); flavoured with spices such as hing (asafoetida), saunf (fennel), chilli powder, garam masala (their own secret recipe) etc. The dough of the kachori also gets flavour from the use of methi (fenugreek) and ajwain (carom seeds) in it. Kachoris are deep fried in peanut oil for long time which enhances all the flavours and makes it fluffy and flaky. The hot kachoris are served with a green chutney made from coriander and mint, and a red sweet chutney made from imli (tamarind).


4. Thali at Nataraj hotel

Address: Bapu bazar main road, Udaipur


The simple yet flavourful thali of Nataraj


Udaipur is famous for Mewari thali and there is no better place than Nataraj to savour this flavourful cuisine. The old Nataraj in Bapu Bazar area has been serving Mewari thali for over 50 years and has attracted many food lovers including famous food critics, chefs and travellers. Among them you have the notable, Anthony Bourdain who visited this place almost a decade back. So, if you are a Anthony Bourdain fan then maybe ask the waiters to show you where he sat to dine, and if you are lucky (like us) you may end up enjoying the mega meal on same spot as the man himself.


We were luck to find the table empty where Anthony Bourdain sat to enjoy this thali


Nataraj serves few very simple yet amazingly flavourful and freshly made dishes in their thali like hing (asafoetida) kachori, seasonal vegetable fry (we got fried okra) dry potato curry, daal, moong ki sabji (mung bean curry), paneer curry, along with freshly made phulka (a type of Indian flat bread) and rice. For desert they serve warm and soft gulab jamun and homemade yogurt.


5. Dal Bati and Churma At Dhabalogy

Address: Nathdwara, Rajasthan 313202, India


Dal-bati from Dhabalogy


Dal bati churma is the signature dish of Rajasthan and is best eaten at someone’s home or at select few restaurants in Udaipur. One such is the new shining star of Udaipur food scene Dhabalogy, which is located around 20kms outside the city on national highway number 58. The place has some great retro vibe – tasteful yet quirky rustic interiors and

serves some amazingly tasty and authentic Rajasthani cuisine. This place is now slowly becoming one of the ‘must visit places in Udaipur’ not only to have a great meal but also to enjoy the nice ambience.


Talk of the Town - Tasteful yet quirky rustic interiors of Dgabalogy


One of the best dishes of this place is dal bati. The bati is a whole wheat flour dough ball baked over charcoal or traditionally over dung cake. The balls are delicately e flavoured with methi leaves (fenugreek), ajwain (carom seeds), cumin seeds, chilli and turmeric power, yogurt and salt.


In the Mewar region, Urad (Black gram) dal is used in the dish and is cooked with onions, ginger, garlic, green chilli, hing (asafoetida), cumin seeds, chilli and turmeric power and garam masala and finished with dollops of ghee.


To way to eat dal bati is to first crush the bati into small pieces, add a dash of ghee and then mixed with the dal, add a squeeze of lemon juice and devoured with pickles and sliced onions.


The churma which is the sweet component of this dish is prepared from baked whole wheat flour dough ball crushed and roasted with plenty of ghee, jaggery and a hint of cardamom.


6. Gulab Jamun At Lala Misthan Bhandar

Address: Jagdish Temple Rd, Old City, Ghantaghar, Silawatwari, Udaipur


Gulab jamun from Lala Misthan Bhandar


Established for almost 125 years, Lala Misthan Bhandar is one of the oldest shops in Udaipur serving sweets to its residents. From their wide range of sweets, the gulab jamun remains the favourite among locals and tourists. These are soft, relatively small with nicely balanced sweetness (not overpowering) and taste best when eaten warm.


7. Methi Key Gotay and Kadhi At Gayatri Restaurant

Address: Maldas St, Moti Chohatta, Bohrwadi, Udaipur


The small family run shop and a plate of methi key gotay


Located inside a small alley way off the Maldas Street in Udaipur, this restaurant has been serving a unique snack to its customers for over 40 years. Typically found in Gujarat, methi key gotay are small crispy fritters which are made from a batter of besan (gram flour) in which generous amount of dried Kasuri methi (fenugreek) are mixed along with garam masala, chillies, ginger, garlic, ajwain (carom seeds), sugar and salt. The fritters are soft and fluffy but dense inside and has a crunchy outside. Freshly fried fritters are served with a lukewarm sweet kadhi (yoghurt based).


8. Rabdi At Raju Bhai Rabdi Wala

Address: Shop Number 1, Nani Gali, Old City, Silawatwari, Udaipur


Raju bhai and his delicious rabdi


Stone’s throw away from famous Jagdish temple in Udaipur lies this famous rabdi shop - Raju Bhai Rabdi Wala! Raju bhai keeps serving his customers rabdi while fresh milk keeps simmering away on low flame in big pans. Ask for the special rabdi and Raju bhai will take a portion of sweet cold rabdi from fridge and will mix it with the hot malai and thickened milk from the simmering pan - a perfect balance of sweetness with a hint of warmth. Try to go before noon to try this as in evening the shop only serves cold rabdi!


Besides being a famous rabdi wala, Raju bhai also volunteers as an animal rescuer. Self-taught from watching videos on Nat Geo and Discovery, Raju bhai has rescued numerous snakes before releasing them back in wild for the last two decades. He even runs camps in villages to raise awareness among people on the importance of preserving wildlife.And according to him people’s viewpoint towards wildlife preservation is changing.Quite an interesting personality indeed.


9. Pohe At Jagdish Shri Restaurant - Namkeen

Address: Arzia House, RJ SH 50, Near Jagdish Temple, Rao Ji Ka Hata, Udaipur


Pohe from Jadish Shri Restaurant


Located few meters inside the alleyway just opposite of Jagdish temple, Jadish Shri Restaurant is famous and popular among locals for Poha (flaky rice) for breakfast. The pohe from this restaurant is light and fluffy and has a perfect balance of savoury, sweet and tanginess. The pohe served here is warm and fresh, which is the best way to enjoy this breakfast dish. The pre-soaked poha is sauteed with with coriander, fennel, back mustard seeds, turmeric, and then garnished with sev (small noodle like crunchy savoury snack made from chickpea flour dough), spicy boondi (small crunchy balls made by frying pea flour batter), chat masala, chopped onion, fresh coriander and dash of lemon juice. The softness of the warm poha and the crunchiness of the sev, boondi and onions is like a marriage made in heaven.


10. Doodh and Jalebi At Trivedi Upahar Grah

Address: Surajpole Circle, next to Udaipur hotel, Udaipur


Freshly made cruncy jalebi with doodh


Established at the time of independence of India, this age-old sweet shop is famous for its doodh-jalebi. This is a combination of cow’s milk (doodh) served with freshly made jalebis which are made in ghee and socked in thick sugar syrup which is flavoured with saffron and food colour. The hot milk and warm fried jalebis bathed in sugar syrup are a mouth-watering combo! You dunk the crunchy jalebi in the warm milk and enjoy the textures and flavours mixing in your mouth! Divine!



11. Cold Coffee At Sai Sagar Coffee And More

Address: Shop No 3, Bombaya Bazar, Fateh Sagar Lake, Udaipur


Cold coffee from Sai Sagar coffee house with Fateh sagar lake and sunset as backdrop


Located by the Fateh Sagar lake in Udaipur, this coffee house made it way to fame with the cold coffee it has been serving over the years. The setting of the beautiful lake no doubt elevates the coffee experience. They roast and grind their coffee beans themselves. They make their coffee by mixing the coffee powder with chilled milk and sugar and finish with a scoop of ice-cream, a sprinkle of chocolate chips and a dash of chocolate syrup! No wonder the coffee is creamy and rich!


12. Lemon Tea At Pandit Ji Ki Lemon Tea

Address: Saheli Marg, opp. Saheliyo Ki Bari, Udaipur


The magical lemon tea of Pandit ji


Pandit ji from his small tea stall serves this lemon tea with a dash of magic! The heavenly lemon tea is perfectly balanced with mint, lemon and a dash of Pandit Ji’s secret masala! A perfect beverage for a hot day or a rainy evening or anything in between!


13. Mirchi Vada (Stuffed Chilli Fritter) At Dhabology

Address: Nathdwara, Rajasthan 313202, India


The must have street food of Udaipur - Mirchi vada


The one street food that no one should miss in Udaipur is mirchi vada. Unlike most other places, mirchi vada is Udaipur comes with a filling of potato. The filling is spicy with a hint of tanginess, the stuffed mirchi (chilli) is then dipped in gram flour batter and deep fried. The quality and taste of the mirchi vada varies from shop to shop based on the type and quantity of spices used to prepare the potato filling. Dhabology serves some good ones which are worth a try. The splices used in the potato filling in Dhabology is very delicately balanced with each ingredient not overpowering the other. Spicy and slightly tangy the vada should be enjoyed with chutney when served hot!


14. Imarti At Shyam Misthan Bhandar

Address: Hatipole Road, Jatwari, Udaipur


Freshly made warm imarti from Shyam Misthan Bhandar


Almost similar in shape but thicker than jalebi in size, imarti is a common sweet sold in many sweet shops in Udaipur and around Rajasthan. Best eaten fresh and hot, imarti is made from a batter of finely blended paste of soaked urad dal (black gram) and corn flour with some orange food colouring. The skilled hand of halwai (confectionery) then turns the batter into flower like shapes over hot ghee, these are fried till golden brown and dipped in thick sugar syrup often coloured by food colour or saffron. Perfectly made imarti should be crunchy on the outside and soft inside and should retain just prefect amount of syrup to prevent it from running dry. The imarti made by Shyam Misthan Bhandar comes very close to being a perfect imarti by definition and quality, which is evident by the quick sell out each day.


15. Rabdi Malpua At Shyam Misthan Bhandar

Address: Hatipole Road, Jatwari, Udaipur


The unique Rajasthai bardi malpua


Apart from imarti, Shyam Misthan Bhandar is also popular for rabdi malpua. Though traditionally malpua is made by soaking the deep-fried thin pancakes in sugar syrup, Rajasthani rabdi malpua is not soaked in sugar syrup. As the name suggests, rabdi malpua is made from a thin batter made from rabdi (slow cooked thickened milk) mixed with sugar, plain flour and food colouring. The thin batter is then fried in ghee till golden brown. The sweetness in rabdi malpua comes from the thickened milk and sugar. The rabdi malpua served by Shyam Misthan Bhandar are thin, fluffy, crispy in outside and only slightly sweet.

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Writer's pictureSlow Coach

Updated: Jul 5, 2024


Hungarian Parliament

Hungarian Parliament


Airport to the Heart of Budapest: Bus is the best way to travel between the Airport and the heart of the city, as taxi ride is expensive. Bus number 100E which leaves from outside the arrival area of airport, goes to Deák Ferenc tér metro station. One way bus ride costs 900 Hungarian Forints which is just over £2.00 and takes around 45 minutes to travel to and from the airport and the city centre.


Time of the Year: May to October is good time to travel. We travelled in October 2021 and got very sunny and dry days! Unfortunately, it was the ‘year of renovations’ (just our take, not official) in Hungary as almost all places were closed, scaffolded or off-limits. Like they say, you cannot have it all!


Travel within the country: Rail system is good, trains are clean and comfortable. Hungarian rail system provides excellent connectivity and runs on time!


Buda Castle, Budapest

River Danube and city of Buda


History of Hungary

Hungary is one of the oldest countries in Europe, also known as Magyarország, ‘Land of Magyars’. The Magyars were Finno-Ugric people, originating from the Ural region in today’s central Russia who migrated across the Eastern European steppe. It is believed that there were seven Magyar tribes. They settled on the Danube plain in the 9th century after a long migration. Arpad was one the first tribal chieftains, whose descendent was Stephen I, the first ‘Christian’ King of Hungary (recognized by Pope) who in the 10th century expanded Hungarian control over Carpathian basin.

In the 13th century, Hungary was invaded and devastated by the Mongols and by the 15th century the Ottomans attacked, but were defeated at the Siege of Belgrade. However, the Hungarians lost control over most of the country to the Ottoman Turks at the Battle of Mohacs in the 16th century. After over 150 years of Ottoman occupation, the Austrian Habsburgs expelled the Turks. In 1848, the Hungarians led a two-year bloody revolution for freedom against the Austrian Habsburgs but lost. But after a few decades with changes in international scenario, Austria agreed to give more ‘power’ to Hungary and 1867 is called the 'year of the compromise' and a rather awkward 'marriage'!

The resulting Austro-Hungarian dual monarchy, however, gave a massive boost to the economy, especially in Budapest. Some of the most iconic buildings including the Hungarian Parliament building were erected during this time.

In 1918, at the end of World War I. the Austro-Hungarian Empire broke up. The Hungarian republic was proclaimed following a revolution. However just a year later, the Communists took over and waged war on Czechoslovakia and Romania. Romanian forces succeeded in occupying Budapest. The year after in 1920, under the Treaty of Trianon, more than two-thirds of Hungarian territory was awarded to Czechoslovakia, Romania and Yugoslavia. These new borders meant that a third of native Hungarian speakers were now outside the country. This left a bitter resentment in the hearts of the Hungarians and they started to ally with Nazi Germany and Hungary managed to gain some of its lost territory. By 1944, Hungarian Nazis seized power and Hungarian Jews and Gypsies were deported to death camps. However, the year later, Soviet forces drove the Germans out of Hungary and consolidated power under the Soviet occupation. However, following more uprisings, the Soviet forces eventually withdraw from Hungary and democracy was established.

Today Hungary shares its borders with Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, Ukraine and Slovakia. It is interesting to note that the language Hungarian (Magyar) is unique and not related to any other major European language. It belongs to the Finno-Ugric language group, meaning its closest relatives are actually Finnish and Estonian.

Budapest, the capital of Hungary has been continuously settled since prehistoric times. Today it is home to one-fifth of the country’s population. It consists of two parts, Buda and Pest, which are situated on opposite banks of the Danube river and connected by a series of bridges. The city, including the banks of the Danube, the Buda Castle Quarter, and Andrássy Avenue, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987. It is also good to know that there are 23 districts (kerulet in Hungarian) in Budapest which are numbered clockwise and marked in Roman numerals (I, II, III etc).


We travelled to Hungary in the month of October, during the start of the fall season. This is our three days Budapest travel itinerary


Day 1:

Jewish Quarter

This is where the Jews started settling down in the late 18th century. With the rapid development and urbanization, the Jewish population thrived in Hungary. This created kosher restaurants, synagogues and shops. They were highly integrated into the Hungarian Christian society.

Things took a tragic turn during World War II, when Nazis and Hungarian fascists turned the Jewish Quarter into a ghost town.

Today, there are some remnants of Jewish people and their lifestyle which thanks to tourism has got a new lease of life. Located in the 7th District of Erzsebetvaros, today the place is full of street art, restaurants, cafes and ‘ruin bars’.


Budapest Ruin bar, Szimpla Kert

Ruin bar of Jewish quarter - Szimpla Kert


Szimpla Kert

This is the first and the most iconic ‘ruin bar’ in Jewish quarter. As the name 'ruin bar' suggests, these are pubs or drinking joints inside dilapidated and neglected (ruins) pre-war buildings. These are full of eclectic and quirky décor and furniture creating a very cool and unique ambience.

It is believed that Szimpla Kert started the positive change for the Jewish quarter. The name means ‘Simple Garden’, but this is a place of vibrant and eclectic vibes. It is free to enter and opens up into a courtyard which is essentially the open-air pub, flanked by rooms of various sizes. When you go for the first time, it does feel like a funky maze, where you discover something quirky at every nook and corner. We travelled during the month of October which is not a peak tourist season in Hungary and its capital Budapest, so it wasn’t as crowded as you would expect it to be, so it was fun just having all these artsy, eclectic and fun spaces to walk around and savour!


Budapest Ruin bar, Szimpla Kert

Interior of Szimpla Kert


The place is also home to a Farmers Market every Sunday. The sellers bring their own organic produce - cheese, honey, jam, syrup, vegetables and fruit, meat, freshly picked and dried mushrooms, truffle specialities, spices, sandwich spreads. There is also a brunch on the upper floor with muesli, organic fruit juices, home-made cocoa, tea specialities, coffee and many products from the sellers.

Szimpla Kert is also known for its live concerts. Have a little sneak peek by clicking the link: https://www.youtube.com/szimplakert

Overall, the place has established itself as a true community hub breathing the much needed ‘life’ back into this once vibrant area.


Dohany Synagogue, Budapest Synagogue

The largest Synagogue of Europe - Dohány Synagogue


Dohány Synagogue

There are three synagogues in the Jewish quarters. The Dohány Synagogue is the largest in Europe and second largest in the world after Belz Great Synagogue, in Jerusalem. The Central Synagogue in Manhattan, New York City is almost a replica of the Dohány Street Synagogue.

The synagogue was constructed in the 1850s for the Pest Jewish community. It was constructed in Moorish Revival style by Viennese architect, Ludwig Förster who was also the architect of the synagogue in Tempelgasse in Vienna. He invented this ‘oriental’ style to create something suitable for the Jews. The two tall towers with domes add an imposing element to the facade. The impressive structure of the Torah Ark covers the entire eastern wall. It was designed by the second architect of the synagogue, Frigyes Feszl, Hungarian Romantic style expert.

This became a symbolic building for the Hungarian Jewish community, as the Neologs worked for greater cultural assimilation and modernization of Jewish life, thereby breaking away from traditions as well as Orthodox Jews. Many aspects of the synagogue show this reformist nature.


Dohany Synagogue Budapest

Architecture of Dohány Synagogue


The building itself resembles a mosque from the outside and reminds of a church inside with its aisles and impressive 5,000 pipe organ. This was no co-incidence as a significant proportion of Hungarian Jews (Neolog) were very integrated with the Christian population of Hungary. The synagogue has a seating capacity of almost 3,000. The 'bima', the Torah reading table was moved from the centre and placed in front of the Torah Ark. They delivered their sermons in Hungarian rather than in Yiddish. The services were accompanied by organ music and a choir. However, men and women continued to be seated separately.

The synagogue has a garden which has been used as cemetery for the victims of the Holocaust. This is contrary to Jewish culture. There is a memorial for 10,000 Jewish Hungarian soldiers who lost their lives in WWI and a museum, where you can learn all about the Holocaust and the Budapest Ghetto that existed in this area. In the rear courtyard of the synagogue, is the Raoul Wallenberg Holocaust Memorial Park, with a weeping willow tree sculpted by Imre Varga in memory of those who had died or disappeared, their names and tattoo numbers embossed on the metal leaves.

The synagogue was bombed by the Hungarian pro-Nazi Arrow Cross Party in 1939 and suffered severe damage from Nazi raids. The small population that survived used it again during the Communist era. Its restoration and renovation started in 1991, financed by the state and by private donations, including some very notable names like that of Estee Lauder.


Budapest St Stephen’s Basilica

The central dome of St Stephen’s Basilica


St Stephen’s Basilica

St Stephen’s Basilica is the largest cathedral in Budapest and with its height of 314 feet or 96 meters it is also the highest building in Budapest. Around 8,500 people can congregate inside this important religious building. It is neoclassical in style and is dedicated to its patron and Hungary’s first king, St. Stephen and his mummified right hand – the Szent Jobb (Holy Right Hand) – is kept in a glass case near the main altar. Entry is free but you need to pay some ‘voluntary’ donation. The view of Budapest from dome or cupola would have been gorgeous but was closed when we visited.


Hungarian Parliament, Budapest

The Hungarian Parliament


Hungarian Parliament

The nomadic Hungarian tribal leaders, and the descendants of prince Arpad used to meet in the open-air to discuss important matters and it wasn’t until the revolution against the Austrians, that noble Hungarians wanted to have a permanent forum for discussing issues of national interest. Since the 18th century, the Hungarian parliamentary sessions were primarily held in what is present day Bratislava, and in Latin, instead of Hungarian, as there was a lack of important words needed for such discussions. This led to the development of a more ‘functional’ Hungarian. This went hand in hand with the desire to have a Hungarian Parliament following the compromise. The location of the new parliament building was selected to be on the Pest side, to offset the presence of the Royal Palace atop the Castle Hill on the Buda side. It took almost 60 years to get the design finalized, the funds organized and the build to be completed.


Hungarian Parliament

The Hungarian Parliament


From the 19 design tenders, the winner was Imre Steindl, a Hungarian architect and his plan was inspired by the English Parliament by the bank of river Thames in London. The building was designed in Gothic Revival style in line with the English Parliament with classic two-chambers for the lower house and the upper house. It is the third largest parliament building in the world (after the Pentagon in US and the Palace of the Parliament in Romania) with 691 rooms, 28 staircases with the spectacular grand stairway to the Dome Hall with eight huge granite columns and stained-glass windows.

The official main entrance of the Hungarian Parliament is on Kossuth square. The main stairs at the entrance on Kossuth Square are flagged by the lion statues, the original lions were destroyed during World War II.


The Shoes on the bank of Danube

The metal Shoes on the bank of Danube


The Shoes on the bank of Danube

The Danube is European continent’s second-longest river, with 1,777 miles and travels from the Black Forest region of Germany and all the way to the Black Sea passing through or beside ten different countries including some of Central and Eastern Europe’s most important cities, such as Vienna, Budapest, and Belgrade.

On the banks of this impressive river in Budapest is a trail of iron footwear – a grim reminder of death just next to the life-giving river.

In October of 1944, Hitler overthrew the leader of the Hungarian government, Miklos Horthy, and replaced him with Ferenc Szalasi, leader of the Arrow Cross Party, a fascist, anti-Semitic group that carried out atrocities on the Jews, expelling nearly 80,000 Jews from Hungary in a death march to the Austrian border. Approximately 20,000 Jews were brutally shot along the banks of the Danube River. The victims were forced to remove their shoes as these were a valuable commodity during World War II. As they were shot, they fell over the edge into the freezing waters of the Danube.

‘Shoes on the Danube’ is a monument created by film director Can Togay and the sculptor, Gyula Pauer. It consists of 60 sculpted pairs of 1940s-style shoes, very similar to the real shoes we had witnessed in Auschwitz in Poland.

Along the memorial, are signs with the following words in Hungarian, English, and Hebrew: “To the memory of the victims shot into the Danube by Arrow Cross militiamen in 1944–45. Erected 16 April 2005.”


Budapest Great Market Hall

Budapest's Great Market Hall


Great Market Hall

Taking inspiration from Western European countries with covered market halls, Budapest saw the creation of the Great Market Hall or the Central Market Hall built at the end of the 19th century.

Also called Nagycsarnok or Vasarcsarnok in Hungarian, the hall was designed by Samu Petz. The building is adorned with colourful Zsolnay tiles and has a wrought-iron structure.

Budapest Great Market Hall

Hungarian sausage and meat shop of Great Market Hall


It is the largest of all Budapest market halls with 3 floors (basement, ground and first) selling everything from fresh fruits and vegetables, spices, fresh meat and fish, pickles, Hungarian paprika, Tokaj wines, dairy products, handicrafts, embroided clothes, linen and souvenirs. We headed to the second floor for mouth-watering Hungarian cuisines. It was incredibly busy, and we had to wait and queue for the food at the various stalls but it was definitely worth the pain!


Day 2:

We started day 2 in the Budapest’s Castle District which is atop a hill rising from the Danube riverbank. It is one of the oldest sections of the city, with beautiful cobblestoned streets, and magnificent buildings and views.



Fishermans Bastion Budapest

Neo-Gothic architecture of Fisherman’s Bastion


Fisherman’s Bastion

Located in the 1st district of Budapest, the Fisherman’s Bastion or Halaszbastya was built in the late 19th century as part of a development wave to celebrate the 1000th birthday of the Hungarian state. Therefore, it is not exactly ‘historic’! It was designed by Frigyes Schulek, the architect who built the adjacent Matthias Church in Neo-Gothic style.

The Bastion features seven ornate turrets, each representing one of the seven Magyar tribe chieftains. The term ‘fisherman’s’ is to celebrate the medieval Fisherman’s Guild, who in the medieval times, were responsible for protecting this stretch of the district, where Fisherman’s Bastion now stands. The intention of the Fisherman’s bastion was to provide panoramic views of the city. Looking over the Danube river, the Buda Castle and Castle Hill, it really is a one stop shop for breath-taking views!

The Fisherman’s bastion is open all year, day and night and admission is free, but you will need to pay a small fee to go to the top of the turrets. There is a cafe on the terrace and a chapel in the centre. The best time to get good views and good shots is early in the morning when most people are still on breakfast table!

During World War Two, the Fisherman’s Bastion was damaged during sieges. It was restored by the architect’s son. Today, the Fisherman’s Bastion is part of the city of Budapest UNESCO World Heritage site.


Matthias Church, Fisherman’s Bastion

View of Matthias Church from Fisherman’s Bastion


Matthias Church

The Church is part of the Buda castle complex situated on a hill in the West Bank of the Danube river in front of the Fisherman's Bastion. The bell tower of the Matthias Church is the highest building of the Buda castle complex.

There is one interesting story associated with this church. Like other churches, this building was transformed into a mosque during the Ottoman rule which lasted for almost one and half century. During the 17th century, when Buda, like other parts of Europe was under Ottoman rule, the ‘Holy League’ had formed which was essentially an alliance of European nations to prevent further Ottoman expansion into Europe. This was a key turning point in history as it was successful in diminishing the Ottoman presence in Europe.

So, coming back to the story, during the Siege of Buda which was fought between the Holy League and the Ottoman Empire, a cannon fire caused a wall of the church to collapse revealing an old statue of Virgin Mary to the praying Turks. It is believed that this led to a drop in the morale of the Turks and the city fell on the same day.


Matthias Church Budapest

Inside of Matthias Church


The Church is named after King Matthias Corvinus, who was the King of Hungary and Croatia from mid to end of 15th century. Under his regime, medieval Hungarian Kingdom reached the peak of its power. He had ordered the transformation of its original southern tower.

The church was originally built in the 11th century by the King Stephen in Romanesque style but was destroyed during the Mongol invasion in the 13th century. It was restored and enlarged by King Bela IV in Gothic style in the 14th century. The church was badly damaged during World War II when it was used as a camp by the Germans and Soviets during the Soviet occupation of Hungary. It was restored to its original Gothic glory in the late 19th century by architect Frigyes Schulek with funding from the Hungarian government. He introduced new motifs like the diamond pattern roof with Zsolnay ceramic tiles, gargoyles laden spire, Art Nouveau frescoes and mosaics within.

It is home to the Ecclesiastical Art museum which contains a number of sacred relics and medieval stone carvings, along with replicas of the Hungarian royal crown and coronation jewels.


Buda Castle Budapest

Buda Castle


Buda Castle

The Buda Castle has a nice long history of evolution. King Béla IV started building the castle in the 13th century and it continued to evolve for 300 years. It was changed into a royal residence and saw its golden era under the rule of King Matthias in the 15th century. However, it was significantly damaged when the Ottoman army attacked Budapest. Since then, the castle underwent architectural renovations from Gothic to Baroque and also saw different people inhabiting it.

However, after World War II, it lay in ruins. The Communists stripped a lot of the decorative features. After the economic boom in the 19th century, a lot of money was injected to restore and revive it. Today it has a mix of architectural styles. It has U shape and is comprised of over 200 rooms, with an imposing central dome. In front of the dome, a statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy on his horse stands tall. He is remembered for his fight against the Turks. The castle houses the following:

  • Hungarian National Gallery housed in Buildings A-D

  • The Budapest Castle Museum housed in Buildings E

  • Budapest Castle National Library housed in Buildings F


Budapest Hero’s Square

Hero’s Square - Representing seven Magyar tribe chieftains of Hungary


Hero’s Square

Hero’s Square, lies at the end of Andrassy Avenue, is quite an iconic square with its imposing Millennium Monument. It was built in 1896, to mark the 1000th anniversary of the Magyar conquest of the Carpathian Basin. Architect Albert Schickedanz and sculptor Gyorgy Zala were appointed by the then Prime Minister to create the monument. Other sculptors have also worked on the statues, some of which have been replaced overtime. A magnificent 36 meter high column juts out in the centre adorned with a statue of angel Gabriel, holding the Hungarian crown and a cross. At the base are the seven Magyar chieftains on horses led by Grand Prince Arpad. There are two semi-circular colonnades in beautiful symmetry on each side of the column, with 14 statues of rulers and statesmen.

We also visited the Budapest City Park (Varosliget), which is a short walk from the square.


Vajdahunyad Castle

The castle building complex officially called the ‘Historical Building Complex’ was built in 1896, in the Budapest City Park, to mark the 1000th anniversary of the Magyar conquest of the Carpathian Basin. It was initially built just as a temporary structure in canvas, wooden planks and cardboard for the millennial celebrations! But people liked it so much that it was converted into permanent structure. The name ‘Vajdahunyad Castle’ came into use as this is what the entire ‘building complex’ was referred to by locals residents based on the most prominent part of the complex. The main entrance of the Castle is from the Heroes’ Square, and this gate is called the Bridge Gate (Hidaskapu) flanked by stone lions holding the coat of arms of Budapest.

The castle is surrounded by the water of the boating lake of the City Park (aka Varosliget). There are altogether four bridges leading to the Castle.

Today the Vajdahunyad Castle houses the Museum of Hungarian Agriculture, which has always been the main aspect of this ‘castle’. The design of Ignac Alpar beautifully and seamlessly combines element of different architectural styles seen in Hungary like Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque into one eclectic style in true sense! It is believed to be modelled after Bran Castle (Dracula's Castle) in Transylvania. Other attractions in the castle include the Apostles' Tower and Gatehouse Tower and the nearby Anonymous Statue and Ják Chapel.

The castle has three main parts in terms of architectural style:


Church of Jak Budapest

Gate of Church of Jak


  • Chapel of Jak (Romanesque)

An impressive reproduction of only the gate of the Church of Jak stands here as a representation of Romanesque style of 11th-13th centuries. The Church of Jak located in a small village called Jak in western Hungary is in fact a monumental basilica of the Benedictine monastery. Above the elaborate and extremely intricate and layered tympanum are sculptures of the Twelve Apostles with Christ in the middle. Inside it is a functioning Catholic chapel with religious ceremonies and weddings being held. It was closed when we visited, but the external magnificence is a sight to appreciate.


Vajdahunyad Castle Budapest

The Gothic style of Vajdahunyad Castle


  • Vajdahunyad Castle (Gothic)

This striking Gothic architecture from 14th-15th centuries, derives inspiration from the Corvin (Corvinesti, Huniazilor) Castle in the town of Hunedoara, Transylvania, present day Romania, which was once a part of the Hungarian state (the Austro-Hungarian Empire), called the King of Castles. A fascinating aspect of this castle is the association with ‘Dracula’ written by Bram Stoker which inspired many films, including the Vampire Diaries and Twilight saga. It is believed that Dracula’s character was inspired by the 15th century Transylvanian prince, Vlad III Dracul of Wallachia, also called Vlad the Impaler, who was imprisoned and tortured by Janos Hunyadi, a Hungarian general and governor in (original) Vajdahunyad Castle for years. Vlad was also known for his torture techniques (impaling) towards the Ottoman. It is believed that Bram had derived inspiration from the tales of his Hungarian historian/ traveller friend in his creation of Dracula!



Museum of Agriculture Budapest

Baroque style architecture of the Museum of Agriculture


  • The Baroque palace building – home of the Museum of Agriculture (Renaissance and Baroque)

The Baroque palace building is the replica of Austrian palaces in the Austro-Hungarian empire beautifully combining Renaissance and Baroque elements of the 16th-18th centuries.

The Museum of Agriculture housed in this building is in fact the biggest agricultural museum in Europe. There are 8 permanent exhibitions in the museum with exhibits related to agriculture, wine making etc. When we visited Vajdahunyad Castle there were two exhibitions, one on the evolution of hunting equipment and another displaying of Hungarian and German paintings.



New York cafe Budapest

Impressive interior of New York cafe


Day 3:


Breakfast at New York Café

We think this one café where you spend more time looking up at the ceiling than down on your coffee and cake! Indeed, it is probably one of the most lavish places to grab a cuppa and a slice of cake. Therefore, we decided to do it justice by heading for a relaxed breakfast there as soon as it opened (with prior reservation). We saw the queues building up to ridiculous lengths while we sipped our tea and listened to live piano performance, thanking our meticulous planning!


New York cafe Budapest

Stylish breakfast of New York Cafe


Part of the New York Palace hotel, it feels like sitting in a palatial version of the Sistine Chapel! You cannot but marvel at the exquisite, detailed work, the grandeur and the magnificent proportions of this ‘café’!

The New York Place was originally built over 125 years ago, in eclectic Italian Renaissance style by Alajos Hauszmann, the architect who redesigned Buda Castle. It was built for the New York Life Insurance Company and the café was on the ground floor. It was a popular place among writers and editors. After World War II, it fell into disrepair and it served as a sporting goods shop. Although the café reopened in 1954, under the name of Hungária, but it wasn't until 2001 when the Italian Boscolo Group acquired the building and started a 5 year project which saw the restoration of the café and creation of a five-star luxury hotel in all its splendour!


Szechenyi Spa Bath, Budapest Tharmal Bath

Thermal pools of Szechenyi Spa Bath


Szechenyi Spa Bath

For good reason Budapest is also known as the city of spas! With so many thermal baths from the times of the Celts, the Romans and the Turks, Budapest must have seen a good ‘bathing culture’ history in its natural warm spring waters! Today it is geared towards wellness and fitness and everything in between like the very interesting trance spa parties or Sparties! However you can venture out of Budapest as they say there are over 1000 natural spring water sources in Hungary!

So, we squeezed in a well-deserved bath in the limited time we had at Szechenyi Baths and Pool in the City Park, which one of the largest bath complexes of Europe and extremely popular in Budapest. There are different types of tickets available, and we had pre-booked online.


Szechenyi Spa Bath, Budapest Tharmal Bath

Thermal pools of Szechenyi Spa Bath


It has a very impressive and expansive building, where you can revitalize in the saunas and steam rooms, cold plunge pools, swimming pools, and fun-filled whirlpools which was the top favourite of our 8-year-old son! There are some pools where swimming hats are mandatory and clear signage is displayed, and if you fail to see it in your excitement, you will be pointed to the signage promptly!

The chilly morning was the best setting to immerse ourselves into the warm waters under the sunny and clear blue skies!


Szentendre Budapest

The main square of Szentendre


Szentendre

We took the HEV suburban rail line H5 from Batthyány tér underground station on Buda side of the city to get to Szentendre. It is a small scenic town approximately twenty kilometers to the north of Budapest, on the bend of the Danube River. It seems very ‘instagram’ type, but if you look past the touristy bits, there are indeed some hidden gems to enjoy! It definitely has a very strong Mediterranean vibe to it.


Szentendre Budapest

Cobbled Streets of Szentendre


It was originally part of the Roman Empire as the river was used as the eastern frontier of the Empire. Szentendre at the time was called Ulcisia Castra (Wolf Fortress). However, the nomadic attacks from the other bank of the Danube forced the Romans to leave the city around the 5th century. The century of the migration of nations was interrupted by the Magyars during the 9th century. However, the town was shaped by the several thousand Serbs that migrated in in the late 17th century, followed by ethnic groups from Balkans- Armenians, Bulgarians, greeks, Wallachians and the 'Dalmatians'. They were given refuge by the Habsburg Emperor Leopold I. in the decades to follow, the town of Szentendre the rise of 9 Serbian churches -almost like a Serbian Jerusalem. The Serbs were also instrumental in repairing late medieval churches or constructing new ones. They were also very skilled at painting the life of Christ and were exceptional in copperplate engraving.


No wonder then that the town of Szentendre has in the recent past gained a lot of importance for the Serbs due their contribution in terms of literature and art. Szentendre's first mayor was of Serbian identity who during the 35 years of his worklife, promoted planning projects like the Danube embarkment, street cobbling as well as looking after the needy regardless of their religious of ethnic background. There were an increase in


Today Szentendre is a town of arts and culture with a number of museums and art galleries living up its artistic past.

Szentendre Budapest

Mediterranean vibe of Szentendre


Scattered around the city, you will see 8 crosses of Szentendre Serbs, these were built as special spiritual places and meeting points. This town’s main square is situated in the very heart of Szentendre, and is surrounded by a variety of shops, restaurants and churches. Its cobbled streets lead to many pretty and photograph worthy spots, with an abundance of dainty little shops serving mouth-watering ice-creams, bubble teas and the likes.

The museum of Serb Orthodox Bisphoric of Buda is a must see place, it is located in the garden of the Bishop's Palace, by the Churchyard of the Orthodox Episcopal Cathedral. It was founded in 1964 as a treasury of Orthodox ecclesiastical antiquities in Hungary. It is just a minute away from the main square.


museum of Serb Orthodox Bisphoric of Buda Szentendre
museum of Serb Orthodox Bisphoric of Buda Szentendre

Byzantune style paintings of The museum of Serb Orthodox Bisphoric of Buda


Its modest exteriors definitely create a bit of surprise! It has some extremely beautiful work from the 18th century. Serbian art in this period similar to trends in Europe, did away with the medieval late Byzantine characteristics, and created its own spiritual and artistic identity.

Other places to visit are the Serbian Ecclesiastical Museum, Saint John the Baptist’s Parish Church, Pirk Janos Museum etc.

Before heading back to Budapest, we spent some time at the Danube Waterfront. On our way back though, we were kicked out of the train along with two fellow Finnish travellers as the Budapest Travel card did not cover the last 2 stops to Szentendre. Thoroughly embarrassed and astonished, we managed to get the tickets from the kiosk on the station. While we laughed with the Finnish travellers our 8 year old was very annoyed at the ambiguity of the tickets and was certain that it was Hungarians who were at fault here! Well, we reminded him that this is the fun of travel, to step out of your comfort zone and explore, make mistakes and have a good laugh!




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Writer's pictureSlow Coach

Updated: May 22, 2022

Sitting right in the middle of Budapest and Vienna, Gyor is a lovely modern city but steeped in history. So, its position has been strategically significant in the former Austria-Hungarian​ empire. Not only that, Gyor sits at the meeting point of the Danube and Raba Rivers, in the heart of Hungary's Little Plain, and therefore has always been a strategic site in the region. King Stephen I, who was the first king of the Magyars, the founders of modern Hungary, gave the town its present name Gyor in the 11th century. He also fortified the Roman castle and fostered trade river trade along the Danube. It fell to the Turks in the mid-15th century. In the 17th century, the Jesuit order settled in Győr and established the church (dedicated to the founder, St. Ignatius of Loyola), monastery and school. This led to restoration of infrastructure, science as well as culture.

Győr is also known for its art, food and music festivals.


The map of The Archabbey of Pannonhalma


Pannonhalma Archabbey

This was our first stop. The Benedictine abbey sits on a hill-top and dates to the 10th century when the first Benedictine monks settled here. It had a major role in the spread of Christianity in medieval Central Europe. They found the country's first school and in 1055 wrote the first document in Hungarian. From the time of its founding, this monastic community has promoted culture throughout central Europe. Its 1,000-year history can be seen in the succession of architectural styles of the monastic buildings (the oldest dating from 1224), which still today house a school and the monastic community.


Corridors of The Archabbey of Pannonhalma

The Archabbey of Pannonhalma and its environment (the monastic complex, the Basilica, educational buildings, the Chapel of Our Lady, the Millennium Chapel, the botanical and herbal gardens) is a UNESCO World Heritage site.


The South door of Archabbey of Pannonhalma - Porta Speciosa


The present-day church building started in the 13th century, has an elevated three-aisled choir, which is the oldest part of the building, over a similar three-aisled crypt, which probably is an element of the earlier church on the site. The main south door, known as the Porta Speciosa, is covered with red marble and flanked by five pairs of columns.


The library of Archabbey of Pannonhalma


The large Refectory is an oblong two-storeyed hall. The building contains a series of mural paintings by Antonio Fossati and the Neoclassical library is said to be stacked with 350,000 volumes medieval manuscripts and several incunabula

The Chapel of our Lady is long single aisled building situated at the top of the southern hill. The nave is barrel-vaulted and joined to the sanctuary by a large arch.

The Millenary Monument is one of seven erected to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the conquest of Hungary in 896. The main areas around the monastic complex are the forest and the botanical garden. The forest, on the eastern slopes of the Pannonhalma landscape, is largely the traditional oak forest of this region. It contains a number of rare and protected floral and bird species.


Matthias Chalice - The abbey's oldest and most illustrative chalice from 15th century Architectural finding from the grounds and hills of the abbey

With a thousand-year history of a Benedictine monastery, the community of monks still functions on the Rule of St. Benedict. Today there are about 50 monks living in the monastery. The Benedictine Secondary School, a boys' boarding school operates within the abbey. Since the end of the communist regime in Hungary, the archabbey and the monks have had the chance to rediscover new areas of work as well, in accordance with the Benedictine tradition. The monks now produce wine, herb tea, chocolate, lavender, soap and music and these can be purchased in the shops of the monastery.


The colourful house and lanes of Gyor old town


Old Town

Győr is the third richest city in Hungary for historic monuments after Budapest and Sopron. The historic centre, the Old Town, was once surrounded by a wall. It lies at the meeting point of the Rivers Danube and Rába. The districts lying south, and east were developed in the 19th century, after the demolition of the ramparts surrounding the Old Town. Today they are called the southern and eastern parts of the city. The Old Town, was declared a historic area in the 1950s and has retained its historic elements and picturesque Baroque architecture.


Inside of Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady


Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady (Gyor Cathedral)

The Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady is a Catholic temple that serves as cathedral Basilica in Gyor, Hungary. It is important for being the seat of the diocese of Gyor. If you are not familiar with what a diocese is, it is a unit of area that is under a bishop. A diocese can be made up of smaller areas called the ‘parish’ under the parish priest. Each parish has its own church. In the Roman Catholism, only the pope can divide or merge dioceses or create new ones.

It was built in the 11th century in Romanesque style. It was later rebuilt in Baroque style in the 17th century.


Entrance of the Bishop's Castle Tower


Püspökvár-Toronykilátó (Bishop's Castle Tower)

The Puspokvar (fortified bishop’s palace) was built in the 13th century and remodeled in the 16th century and stands atop the Kaptalan Hill.

The top of this tower great place to get a panoramic view of the city. Located at the very centre of the city, this residential tower was continuously fortified in anticipation of Ottoman attack, however it didn’t save it from being taken over in the 16th century. Today the castle tower shows the history of the construction of the Bishop's Castle, the portraits of the bishops, as well as an exhibition commemorating Bishop William Apor who was shot dead by Russian soldiers in 1945 in the cellar below the castle.


The Herm of Saint Ladislaus


The Herm of Saint Ladislaus

The head-reliquary of Saint Ladislaus is one of the most significant piece of artefact of Hungarian history. Saint Ladislaus or Ladislaus I of Hungary was king of Hungary and later Croatia during the end of 11th century. After his death in 1095 in Nitra (present day Slovakia) Saint Ladislaus was buried in the cathedral of Nagyvarad in prsent day Romania. After he was canonised by Pope Celestin III in 1192 his tomb was opened, his remains were removed and his bones were placed in a reliquary. Saint Ladislaus's skill relic was then placed over a silver head-shared reliquary and placed over his tomb. During the fire of 1406 the reliquary was damaged, following which the herm of Saint Ladislaus was created which is now house in the town of Gyor next to the town's visitor centre. The herm of Saint Ladislaus is considered to be the third most sacral remains beside the Holy Crown and St Stephen's right hand.


Town Square of Gyor with St Ignatius of Loyola Benedictine Church in the backdrop


Széchenyi tér (Town Square)

The Baroque style square is as much the centre of the city today, as it was in the past, when everything from markets, hearings as well as executions happened here! However, it is much more fun today with festivals every summer as well as the traditional Gyor Christmas Fair.

A statue of Mary stands tall in the middle, surrounded by imposing Baroque palaces as well as Benedictine complexes. The Széchenyi Pharmacy Museum, the Vastuskós House, the János Xantus Museum can be found here. Recent renovations saw the addition of modern fountains which is a favourite with kids.


St Ignatius of Loyola Benedictine Church


St Ignatius of Loyola Benedictine Church

The Church of Saint Ignatius is situated between the Benedictine monastery and grammar school. Dating back to the 17th century, this is the oldest baroque church in Hungary, and is said to be influenced by Jesuit Church in Vienna.


Vienna Gate Square and the statue of Kisfaludy Karoly


Bécsi Kapu Tér (Vienna Gate Square)

Vienna Gate Square is one of the most significant squares in the historical centre of Győr, one of the most beautiful baroque squares in Hungary. Back in the day, passengers arrived in the city centre through the Vienna Gate which stood here. Quite a few, baroque style buildings can be seen from the square. At the centre of the square stood the statue of well know Hungarian artist Kisfaludy Karoly. From the square, a flight of stairs leads to the bank of the Rába, where a bronze equestrian statue of King St. Stephen can be seen. Next to the castle wall are cannon tubes from Vienna.


The Carmelite church at Vienna Gate Square


Kármelita Templom (Carmelite church)

On the south side of the Vienna Gate Square, is the Carmelite church. This magnificent Baroque building is now a symbol of Gyor. It was designed by the great architect and monk Martin Wittwer, or Athanasius and was completed in 18th century.


Castle wall and the river of Raba


Castle Casemates and Lapidarium

In the 16th century, Gyor was one the main lines of defence against the approaching Ottomans. The walls protecting the palace on Káptalan Hill were therefore laced with casemates, and ramparts were added. However, only a small corridor of the ramparts survives, and hosts a small lapidarium displaying fragments of the dismantled Vienna Gate, Roman tombs etc.


The iron rooster - Vaskakas


Vaskakas

The best-known symbol of Győr has been the iron rooster on a pedestal with a crescent and a double cross. It stands proud in the decorative well of Dunakapu Square, and the image can also be seen in the logos of many companies and institutions in Győr. Legend has it that the Iron Rooster was erected by the Turks on Dunakapu Square in 1594 when the city was occupied. The iron rooster was possibly just meant to show the direction of the wind, but Pasha Sina, the leader of the Turks, announced that the castle of Győr would remain with them until the iron day that the rooster crowed! 4 years later a brave cobbler called Ferkó Bajusz, climbed up to the bastion in the dark and blowed his trumpet which sounded like the rooster crowing! The Turks believed that this meant end of their rule and fled Gyor.


Statue of Ark of the Covenant


Legendary statue of Ark of the Covenant

This Baroque monument stands in Gutenberg Square. Legend has it that in the 18th century, a soldier called György Weingasser was accused of adultery, bigamy and having a fake identity. He found shelter with the Jesuit church in Széchenyi square of Gyor. The military commander asked for his extradition, but the bishop helped him by taking him during the procession of the Lord’s day dressed like an acolyte. However, the soldiers recognized him and attacked him at the place where the Ark of the Covenant now stands.

During the fight they hit out the eucharist from the bishop’s hand and it not only broke into pieces but was also stepped on. To ask for God’s forgiveness, the king ordered a monument to be erected. According to tradition, the people placed within the Ark of the Covenant the pieces of wafer which fell on the ground, along with the dirt, as they believed the dirt had been blessed by the fallen pieces.

Jedlik Anyos Fountain - Fountain that commemorate the invention of soda water

Jedlik Anyos Fountain

This delightful turquoise soda bottle drinking fountain at the Gutenberg Square and weighs approximately 365 kg is the most modern element of the Gutenberg Square. It was created in 2012 by the well-known city glass artist, László Hefter. This fountain is to commemorate one of Hungary’s and Gyor’s well-known inventors, a Benedictine monk and natural scientist Ányos Jedlik. Jedlik invented a machine called the 'apparatus acidularis' which enabled bulk production of soda water.


House of the Iron Stump (closed when we visited)

This iconic building is located at the west side of the square. Marked No. 4, this is a unique two storied building with cylindrical corner balcony. On one corner there’s a tree trunk studded with nails. Legend has it that every tradesman passing by the stump had to hammer a nail in for good luck. The house is a museum and houses the Imre Patkó Collection, Chinese art and an ethnographic collection from Africa, Oceania and the Far East. It was closed when we visited Gyor.


Xántus János Múzeum (closed when we visited)

Located in the beautiful Apatur house (also known as Abott house) with stunning Baroque architecture, the Janos Xantus museum is the largest public collection and includes history from ancient times to the present day of Győr and its surroundings archaeological finds, medical history and fine and applied arts. The museum is named after John Xantus, During the revolution of 1848, he fought with the rebels against the Austro-Hungarian government and had to go into exile as a result. He fled through Amsterdam to England, and thereafter, in 1852, to the United States where he developed a passion for natural history. Years later when he returned to Hungary, he was appointed as the director of the Budapest Zoo and Botanical Garden, and also acted as a consultant and curator for the Hungarian National Museum. Xantus also undertook several collecting trips through Asia, where he found and named organisms unknown to western science.


Our Hungarian friends from Gyor who opened the house and heart while hosting us


A Hungarian feast cooked by our friend and host in Gyor


All in all Gyor turned out to be much more than a travel destination. We were fortunate to be hosted by our lovely friends in Gyor, who not only opened their home and hearts to us but treated us with mouth-watering home cooked feast for dinner and breakfast! We had a lovely time talking with them and our boy thoroughly enjoyed the company of their 3 gorgeous border collies and 2 cats! We also had the privilege of being shown around the Pannonhalma Archabbey by their mother’s friend. Visiting a place is one thing but being in the company of friends brings on a whole new meaning to the trip.


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